TCM Models Editorial Fashion Lighting Tutorial

In this editorial fashion lighting tutorial you will learn how to use the white satin panel. All the editorial fashion images in this article were created with a single white satin panel and a single monolight. I find that monolights rated at 400ws, or more, will work the best.

Seamless paper users take note: I shoot between f/2.8 and f/5.6 to avoid or minimize seeing the ugly seamless paper ripples in the background. A shallow depth-of-field will help blur the paper ripples. In the images below I shot on a painted cyc wall….but I still shoot near wide open to avoid seeing cyc wall blemishes.

Editorial fashion photography is my favorite fashion style since I can shoot whatever poses I like. Modeling agency’s also like editorial fashion as the images demonstrate that a model can move well. But it is not just about movement…the model must also have a believable expression and display confidence in the wardrobe.

The two models I photographed, Ellie and Cassland, are with TCM Models & Talent. They were both brand new to modeling at the time. The agency booker did warn them that I like difficult poses and they would be asked to “bust a move”.

Knowing beforehand that this was the second shoot for the two girls, I wanted to spend my time and energy on posing and great facial expressions. As it turned out, both Ellie and Cassland quickly adapted to the studio environment and crew. We ended up photographing some of my favorite editorial fashion images.

Ellie J fashion lighting with the white satin panel

Ellie J photographed with the white satin panel

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Popularity: 54%

Posted in Fashion Tagged , , , , , , , |

Heffner Models Fashion Shoot with Satin Panel Lighting

The white satin and nylon panels are the best kept lighting secret in the fashion and glamour photography business. In this lighting tutorial, I will teach you how I use the white satin panel to create a low-key lighting fashion shoot. This fashion shoot is for two local designers, Madina Vadache and Robert Whaley Designs. The lighting setup works equally well for the creative editorial portrait photographer.

My designer friend Dr. Robert Whaley asked me to photography four of his designs. The models are from Heffner Model Management in Seattle. The first model, Elina Ivanova, was on ‘America’s Next Top Model’. These 5 images easily became a favorite on several photography websites. I was kinda dumb-founded by all the requests for the lighting diagrams, so here they are.

Elina Ivanova satin panel low-key fashion lighting

Elina Ivanova satin panel low-key fashion lighting

This is a very simple and basic low-key lighting setup. The white satin panel is on the right and the strobe head is placed fairly close to the fabric. Be careful to not catch the fabric on fire, modeling lights get REALLY HOT.

On my left side I placed a second 5′ x 8′ white satin panel to act as a fill-reflector. Dark dresses such as this dress need a bit of kicker fill. For a white wedding dress you may not even need a fill reflector.

As you will notice in the lighting diagram, the strobe head is placed directly to the side of the model….and she is facing towards the light.

Try experimenting by moving the strobe head to the left or right of the panel to create a Rembrandt (triangle of light below the eye socket). With this simple lighting setup I can create a side-light or a Rembrandt lighting pattern just by moving the strobe head a few feet across the white satin panel……in seconds…..and no need to re-meter the lights!

Contrast ratios are easily controlled by the second white satin panel to the camera left. Additionally, we can control the size of the light on the model by moving the right-side strobe head further or closer to the white satin panel. Try doing that with a softbox! Continue reading »

Popularity: 58%

Posted in Fashion Tagged , , , , , , , |

Panorama Image Stitching and Bracketed Exposures

Lets switch gears for a moment and discuss my two other favorite genres of photography, landscapes and architecture. In this article I will discuss 3 popular techniques that we can use for photographing subjects that don’t move…and I am NOT referring to an agency model that can’t pose worth a damn…LOL.


38MP image F/11 @ 1/3 sec, Nikkor 60mm f/2.8 Micro, 6-image pano-stitch

I will begin by discussing how we can create 30+megapixel by combining single-row panorama stitching and bracketed exposures used as layers (better and realistic looking HDR images) and finally including a 10 stop neutral density filter for surreal water-scapes.

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Popularity: 32%

Posted in Still-Life Tagged , , , , , , |

Craiglist “Photographer Wanted” Job Posting Myths

Not every Craigslist “photographer wanted” ad is hogwash. One “photographer wanted” ad I answered turned out to be a $25,000 monthly shoot. Before we all begin scouring the Craiglist photographer ads, we need to be able to read between the lines and ask ourselves a few questions. What is in it for me!

In this economy, you may find a few honest companies that have reduced budgets and need a professional photographer. Check out their website and do a bit of research. Most of all, approach with caution and do the math. How long will this job take and will I make any money?

Yesterday a local photographer friend emailed me a Craigslist Photographer Job Posting, and asked if this was a good prospect to pursue. Lets take a look at this ad and dissect it. My thoughts are in regular type, the ad is in bold.

Freelance Photographer (Seattle)

We are looking for an amazing freelance photographer to conduct informal editorial shoots featuring local businesses in the Seattle Area for our online publication. This is a great opportunity for college students and photographers looking to publish photos on a nationally recognized forum.

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Popularity: 33%

Posted in Humor & News

One Light Low Key Editorial Fashion Lighting

The classic one-light low-key editorial fashion or portrait image. This lighting tutorial discusses how I use a single monohead and a white satin panel for a low key lighting setup. Again, we don’t need to blast the model with 1000′s of watt seconds. A 400ws or better monolight will work just perfectly.

Try this low key lighting setup for your next portrait shoot as well. Everyone loves the low key portrait look, especially the magazines. If you still doubt me, please take a look at one of the greatest portrait photographers, Albert Watson…..see, told ya, lol.

The designer left it up to me as far as how I wanted to shoot this. The studio cyc wall was beginning to look a bit faded and needed a fresh coat of paint, perhaps a dark gray might look nice. I took a piece of “Thunder Gray” seamless paper to the local HomeDepot and asked the paint department to match it with their groovy paint color analyzer. $30 later, I had a few gallons of inexpensive matte finish “Thunder Gray”.

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Popularity: 67%

Posted in Fashion Tagged , , , |

Editorial and Lookbook Fashion Lighting

How to use the umbrella for editorial high-fashion photography. The umbrella is not dead and this fashion lighting tutorial is the proof. Later, we also demonstrate how to use a beauty dish/satin panel setup for beautiful lookbook fashion lighting.

Four days ago, last Monday, Tim and I photographed Madina Vadache’s Spring 2011 Collection. The week before, we all met and had a short production meeting. We discussed which model we would like to use as well as the shoot location and the overall look for the catalog or lookbook images.

Madina also wanted a few editorial fashion images for the “splash page” of her new website. For the editorial images, we decided to use the lobby area of her condo building. The lookbook setting would be a corner of her design studio, a modern looking window with white blinds.

We can only show a few images, as the collection has not been released for public viewing.

The lighting diagrams are listed below:

Fill & Backlight Umbrella Fashion Lighting Diagram

Fill & Backlight Umbrella Fashion Lighting Diagram

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Popularity: 55%

Posted in Fashion Tagged , , , , , |

Reviews: Creative Lighting for People Photography

Last week we sent out a few copies of the video to several intermediate and commercial photographers, as well as a local art director.

Today we received two new reviews of the “Creative Lighting for People Photography” lighting video. Additional reviews will be posted as soon as they arrive.

Video review page link.

Popularity: 25%

Posted in Uncategorized Tagged |

Nylon Panel/Beauty Dish/Octabox Ring Light for Portraits

When we think of portrait lighting, the first lighting modifier that comes to mind is the softbox or octabox. While these two modifiers are very effective, Tim and I prefer to use variations of the octabox or perhaps the nylon panels.

The panels when used as we did in the video below, offer a very soft light quality for elderly subjects. Or, we may use the same panel setup for beauty lighting.

For the creative senior portrait, I might suggest the octabox ring light modification. This ring light modification looks great for fashion, musicians and editorial portraits as well.

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Popularity: 49%

Posted in Fashion, Portraits Tagged , , , , |

DIY Nylon Panel & 2 Octabox Modifications

The Zeroplusplus Photography Blog is about creative lighting techniques for the frugal photographer. Frugal does not mean cheap lighting. Frugal means being resourceful with what you have to work with. Tim and I show you the lighting modifiers and techniques we use for our commercial projects. And we like to show lighting examples that we use everyday…modifiers and lighting not so obvious to the casual observer.

1) DIY Nylon Panel – soft and diffused lighting for $50
2) Bare Octabox – mimic the 10am or 2pm Sun
3) Grided Octabox w/ToughFrost Disc – removes the center hotspot
4) DIY Octabox Ring Light – ring light shadow without the harshness

Early on in our careers, Tim and I assisted many commercial photographers, and were very fortunate to learn a variety of lighting modifiers and lighting techniques. The “Creative Lighting for People Photography” video tutorial demonstrates the 50 most popular lighting techniques we use for our commercial photography.

Aimee - Octobox Ring-Light Modification

Aimee - Octobox Ring-Light Modification

Melissa - Naked Octobox Modification

Melissa - Naked Octobox Modification

Aimee - Nylon Panel System

Aimee - Nylon Panel System

Melissa - Nylon Panel System

Melissa - Nylon Panel System

Popularity: 39%

Posted in Fashion Tagged , , , |

Basic Retouching & Skin Softening

In 2001 I spent 2 years as a part-time digital retoucher for a very large commercial lab. During that time, I learned a great deal from the expert retouchers, those with 10+ years of experience. Later I learned color management and ran the massive 60″ Roland 12 color inkjet printers. It was my paid film photography to digital photography education.

As I discuss in the Creative Lighting for People Photography video, the retouching step is really the second step in my digital workflow. Everyone has a different workflow and methods, use what works best for you.

My point is, sure I can retouch the hell out of an image. But my clients rarely need extensive retouching. For portraits and fashion work, 95% of the time I can get away with the batch processing you will see in the Creative Lighting for People Photography video. For modeling agency models portfolios I do even less, the plastic skin look is “OUT”.

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Popularity: 23%

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