Finding good fashion and glamour models is not difficult, all you need is your computer and internet access. In this topic I will cover working with modeling agency’s and a two websites to locate quality fashion and glamour models. As well as a few do’s and don’ts. Mostly common sense stuff, but it needs to be said.

Back in the day of film and before computers, I worked with a modeling agency in my community in Santa Barbara, CA. At that time I was attending Brooks Institute of Photography and in the Advertising Photography program. Our first assignment was to photograph people for portraits. The assignment consisted of photographing 25 complete strangers in one week, the teachers goal was for us to overcome our fear of working with unfamiliar subjects. Needless to say, that worked and today I am comfortable in any situation, but more importantly, I learned how to make a subject comfortable in the first 5 minutes they entered my studio.

Our second assignment involved working with the local model agency. The agency, La Belle, would receive us fledgling fashion photographers and allow us to test with their newer models. All this open gratitude was based on the fine standing of the school in the community and the stern words of wisdom from the instructor. His words of wisdom still ring true today, “Fashion photography is about shooting beautiful images….NOT to get laid”. The room of 60 students was so quiet, one could hear a pin drop….we got the idea.

How you behave and conduct yourself as a photographer sends out vibes to the model and will determine the success or failure of the shoot. Hit on the model and they will walk out immediately or be so uncomfortable that each facial expression looks fake. Not only that, congrats, now the agency hates you and will never speak to you again. Believe me when I say…it gets around faster than you think. Now you are a GWC (Guy With Camera)….and taking snappy poos of the family dog again.

Now that we have that out of the way, lets find great models.

Modeling agencies typically have the best models. The models are professional, show up on time, and come prepared with a shoot bag of basic items. Most agencies have a list of qualified photographers and recommend them to the models for paid tests. I suggest that you start out with free models and build a book before going to the agencies. 10 great images may get you in the door, but not always paid work. First the agency wants to see that you shoot great work consistently, only then will they send you paying models. Make an appointment with the agency and they will see you.

How do I know if the agency liked my book…they flipped through 20 images in 15 seconds. Yes that is normal, LOL. If they liked your work they will say so and ask for your contact info, so have a promo piece with you to give them. Chances are that you will have to do 3 free shoots before they can say, “Yes, your work is consistent, we will send you paid gigs now.” Always ask them what kind of look they need from the images. Agencies represent Commercial models and Fashion models…know the difference.

My recommendation is to look at the agency website and browse through the images under Commercial/Lifestyle and Fashion models, the difference in images is more obvious then. Commercial models do more TV and acting spots and petite clothing ads. Fashion models will be taller and do runway shows. Height really varies in different markets. While 5’9″ may be the minimum height for a fashion model in Seattle, it may be 5’8″ in your city.

A common mistake made by new photographers is that they only want to shoot fashion models. I shoot both commercial and fashion models, even my commercial images have a bit of fashion flair…and that is OK, the agencies like that. Generally speaking, commercial models get more work and that also means that they have the funds to hire you. Not every city has a large fashion market and models may pull double duty for both types of work. Being flexible as a photographer is best.

Now lets look at the internet for models. Two very large websites are OneModelPlace and ModelMayhem. OMP is a pay site and requires a minimal fee for photographers to join, it is free for models. MM is completely free for everyone. They do offer a VIP service that allows for 100 images on your book, verses 20 images for the free account. Personally I prefer the free account since I have a website, its your call. Both of these sites are great for networking and also find all my team members here.

If I am not using agency models, then I am using local MM models. Either way, I am very selective of the models I work with. Over the years of working with makeup artists and agencies, one learns what to look for in a model. This means looking for special facial features and how their face might paint with a great mua. The second feature is the eyes…does the model always look bored or is there some range to their personality. What I do not judge are the poses or the photographers skills. The wardrobe used and makeup also bears little input, I am looking for what this model COULD do with a great team and not necessarily what they have done.

Last of all, I pose every model or at least get them started in a pose. Yes that means I bust the move first and have them do it better and improvise! Regardless of agency models or amateur, very few models have any experience doing the more editorial poses I ask for. And why should they, most of the work in Seattle is Macy’s or Nordstrom catalog work in weekly newspaper flyers, the boring stuff. My main goal is to capture the the models personality and natural beauty. If the eyes are dead we have failed. The agencies politely refer to dead eyes as “a room without furniture”.